Garnet has a history spanning more than 5,000 years. Deriving its name from the Latin word for seed, "granatus," Garnet was so named because of its similar color to pomegranate seeds.
From the svelte necklines of Abyssinian princesses to the powdered décolletage of Marie Antoinette, the captivating mystique of Garnets has made them a timeless symbol of feminine beauty. The imaginative lure of this "queen of gems" intoxicates the senses.
Understanding Garnets
Garnets are a group of minerals all having essentially the same crystal structure but varying in chemical composition, physical properties and colors. Unlike many other gemstones, color in Garnet does not come from chemical impurities - when pure, a Garnet still has color. Garnets very rarely occur in nature with their compositions precisely matching their "pure ideal." A natural Garnet's composition typically falls somewhere in between the pure ideals of other Garnet members.
| Group | Species | Pure Types | Mixed Types |
|---|
| Pyralspites | Almandine | Almandine | Rhodolite (Pyrope & Almandine) |
| Pyrope | Pyrope | Mozambique (Pyrope & Almandine) |
| Spessartite | Spessartite | Malaia (Mandarin & (Intermediate composition range between Spessartite & Pyrope) |
| | | Umbalite (Pyrope & Almandine with small traces of Spessartite) |
| Ugrandites | Andradite | Demantoid | Mali (Andradite & Grossular) |
| Grossular | Grossular, Tsavorite, Merelani Mint & Hessonite | |
| Uvarovite | | |
Legends and lore
Garnet's associated symbolism with pomegranates has been longstanding. Interestingly, several ancient pieces of jewelry have been unearthed that are studded with tiny red Garnets in cluster-like patterns reminiscent of pomegranates. The pomegranate is associated with eternity in Greek mythology and mentioned specifically in the legend of Hades' abduction of Persephone.
Garnet has long been associated with fire and was thought to possess the ability to illuminate the sky at night. Today, Garnets remain a symbol of faith, truth and light. This story from Grimm's fairytales nicely presents this association - "Once upon a time an elderly lady came upon an injured bird. Taking the bird home with her, she nursed it back to health until one day it flew away. Although the lady thought she'd never see it again, it returned to her house with a Garnet that she put by her bedside. To her surprise, she awoke every night to see it shining as bright as a torch, illuminating the bird's gratitude for her kindness."
According to Jewish legends, during the great flood a radiant Garnet guided the way for Noah, ultimately leading his ark to salvation. For Muslims they are believed to illuminate the fourth heaven.
Garnet jewelry was buried with Norsemen to light their passage to Valhalla and was also used to light the palace of Abyssinia's monarch.
The Crusaders set Garnets into their armor, believing their power would lead them to safety. During the Middle Ages Garnet was also believed to draw out negativity, ward off harm and increase well-being, chivalry, loyalty and honesty.
To receive a Garnet as a gift in the Middle Ages was considered good luck, however, if ever stolen, bad luck to the thief! It was also believed that a Garnet's loss of luster was a sign of impending doom.
Although Garnet was the "fashion gem" of the 18th and 19th centuries, the inadequacy of available tests often resulted in it being confused with dark Ruby. Jewelry set with Garnets from Czechoslovakia was particularly admired, and although today the Garnets are mined elsewhere, Bohemian style Garnet jewelry has retained its popularity.
In 1912 Garnets were made the official birthstone for January by the American National Association of Jewelers. It is also the gemstone for Aquarians and a traditional gift for 2nd and 6th wedding anniversaries.
Just the facts
Even though there are many types of Garnets (including trade and historic names there are currently 38 known Garnet names), appearing in as many colors, when you say "Garnet" most people automatically think of small dark red gemstones. In fact, Garnets offer enough variety for every taste and can consequently keep up with the fast pace of changes in fashion.
Champagne Garnet
A distinctive and very attractive color variety of Malaia Garnet, Champagne Garnet is in fact a mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet and is mined in Tanzania's Umba Valley.
Color Change Garnet
Color Change Garnets are one of the rarest, most interesting and phenomenal of all gemstones. An extremely rare variety of Malaia Garnet, Color Change Garnet is in fact a mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite Garnet. Comparatively, it is slightly rarer than Alexandrite and it is a constant struggle to get enough quantity to craft lines of jewelry. As our selection is usually relatively limited, it is one of those gems that discerning customers should purchase when they see it, as it simply isn't always available.
While Color Change Garnets have been reported since the early 1970's, it was only noted as a curiosity by a very small number of gemologists and gem collectors because of very limited quantities and colors that were viewed more as strange rather than beautiful. This situation dramatically changed in 1987 when Russian Alexandrite-like Color Change Garnets were discovered in Tanzania's Umba Valley. Since this time, Color Change Garnets have become increasingly coveted by gem collectors and jewelry connoisseurs alike. Historically, color change gems have been popular since the discovery of Alexandrite in the 19th century.
The Madagascan varieties generally display greens (including bluish greens) when viewed under sunlight, changing to raspberries (reddish purples) under candlelight. The Tanzanian varieties generally display khaki olive limes when viewed under sunlight, changing to orange crimson reds under candlelight. However, other color varieties of Color Change Garnet exist - in daylight their color ranges from shades of green, beige, brown, gray and blue (in hues more synonymous with Blue Spinel rather than Sapphire), but in incandescent light they appear a reddish or purplish/pink color. The color change can be intense and equal to the color change of top quality Alexandrite. As a result, Color Change Garnets can easily be mistaken for Alexandrite.
Discovered in the late 1990's, Madagascan Color Change Garnet is from Bekily in southern Madagascar, while Tanzanian Color Change Garnet is today predominately sourced from Tunduru in Tanzania's Ruvuma region. It is also found in some parts of the United States, Russia, Turkey and Sri Lanka (in very small quantities).
Color Change Garnets are not usually found in large sizes. According to one source, the largest known faceted Color Change Garnet weighed 9.5 carats. The most dramatic color changes in Color Change Garnets are due to high amounts of vanadium (in contrast to chromium which causes color change in Alexandrite), although chromium is responsible for the color change in some Color Change Garnets. The existence of additional coloring agents, such as manganese, can also cause some of the more delicate colors in this Garnet variety.
Demantoid Garnet
A favorite of the famous Russian goldsmith Karl Fabergé, Demantoid Garnet is one of the most desirable of all colored gemstones and extremely rare. Discovered in 1855 in the Russian central Ural Mountains at two alluvial deposits, it was first assumed to be Emerald, and even took the name "Uralian Emerald" until gemologists took a closer look. A color variety of Andradite Garnet, the name Demantoid originates from the old German word "demant" meaning "Diamond-like," because of a luster and dispersion that yields a fire even higher than Diamonds!
Commonly known as "horsetail" inclusions, some Russian Demantoid Garnets have golden byssolite strands that form beautiful patterns similar to the tail of a horse. Demantoid Garnets with prominent horsetail inclusions are particularly coveted. While small scale mining reportedly recommenced in Russia in 1991, most Demantoid Garnets are sourced from relatively new deposits beneath the scorched desert sands of Namibia. , due to a fire greater than that of Diamonds, Demantoid Garnet is an absolute "must have" for any serious collector.
Hessonite Garnet
A variety of Grossular Garnet, Hessonite comes in two colors, golden and cinnamon (this variety is commonly known as the "Cinnamon Stone"). A perfectly colored Hessonite is a bright golden orange that resembles a combination of honey and orange with an internal fire. Some Hessonites have tints of red and brown.
Popular for thousands of years, the ancient Greeks and Romans used it in jewelry, cameos and intaglio (a figure cut into a gem so as to make the design depressed below the surface, whereas in a cameo the relief rises above the surface). Interestingly, its name comes from the Greek word "esson," meaning inferior, because it is slightly softer than other Garnet varieties. However, please don't be put off by the origin of its name. Hessonite is still durable and perfectly suited to jewelry.
Widely used in Vedic astrology, Hessonite is known as "Gomedha" in Hindi. The ancient Hindus believed that Hessonite was formed from the fingernails of the great demon Vala, which were scattered in the lakes of the East. Vedic astrologers believe that when set in gold, Hessonite is a powerful talisman that increases your lifespan and happiness.
Hessonite is common in the gem gravels of Sri Lanka and practically all Hessonite is obtained from this locality, although it is also found in Africa.
While the clearest gems are most prized, inclusions in Hessonite are common, with unique toffee-like streaks giving Hessonite an oily or even glasslike appearance.
Malaia Garnet
Discovered in the mid 1960's in Tanzania's Umba Valley, this red-orange to pink-orange variety of Garnet was originally thought to be Spessartite Garnet.
Actually a mixture of Pyrope, Almandine and Spessartite, Malaia Garnets are lively gems that exhibit sparkling red flashes. Once discovered not to be Spessartite, it aptly became known by the Swahili word "Malaia" meaning "outcast."
Malaia Garnets are available in numerous shades of orange, ranging from soft peach to intense reddish orange.
Mali Garnet
Mali Garnet is one of the latest discoveries in the Garnet family. Mali Garnet is an attractive and very interesting rare mixture of Andradite and Grossular that was only discovered in late 1994 at the Sandaré Mine in Mali's Kayes region (Diakon Arrondissement). Extremely rare, Mali Garnets are a bright, uniform light yellowish green color.
Mandarin, Tangerine & Spessartite Garnet
Mandarin and Tangerine Garnets are the intensely bright color varieties of the rare orange red Spessartite Garnet, also known as Spessartine.
Spessartite Garnet is named after its first discovery in Spessart, Bavaria in the mid 1800's. Spessartite Garnet, once an extremely rare gem, is now enjoying a newfound popularity.
In 1991 Mandarin Garnets were discovered embedded in mica in northwest Namibia where the Kunene River borders Namibia and Angola. In 1994 new deposits were unearthed in southwest Nigeria. Soon after, Tanzania, the powerhouse of African gems, yielded deposits at the fabled gemstone mines of Arusha and Lelatema.
Although initially called "Kunene Spessartine" or "Hollandine," the evocative names Mandarin Garnet and Tangerine Garnet were soon adopted.
Merelani Mint Garnet
Long regarded as a source of the finest colored gems, it is no surprise that Tanzania is home to some of the world's most coveted Garnets. Displaying stunning mint greens, luster, sparkly brilliance and excellent durability, Merelani Mint Garnet is a relatively new rare gemstone whose popularity is only limited by its scarcity.
Named for its color and where it is mined, Merelani Mint Garnet was first discovered around 1998 in the same area as Tanzanite (Merelani Hills, Arusha region, Tanzania). Merelani Mint Garnet is basically a different hue of its better known relative, Tsavorite Garnet (Grossular Garnet). Extremely scarce, Merelani Mint Garnet is always relatively small in size (under 1 carat) and is usually included with bubbles and/or silk. Not surprisingly, when clean, Merelani Mint Garnet increases in value.
Formed in metasomatic conditions (the process by which the chemical composition of a rock is changed by interaction with fluids), it is typically extracted directly from metamorphic rocks and similar to Tanzanite, it is found in association with graphite.
Stunning green Garnets have historically always been in very high demand and Merelani Mint Garnet is coveted for a very good reason - few Garnets have such a brilliant appeal.
Mozambique Garnet
Originating in the east African nation they are named after, Mozambique Garnets are famed for their high quality and wonderfully warm, red colors.
Mozambique Garnet is a mixture of Pyrope and Almandine Garnet, similar in color to Rhodolite Garnet, but slightly redder and darker.
Pyrope Garnet
Hear the word "Garnet," and what invariably comes to mind is the image of the deep red Pyrope Garnets belonging to the pyralspites family. Pyrope comes from the Greek word "pyropos," meaning "fiery eyed."
Fine Pyrope Garnets may be visually confused with dark rubies. It was the "fashion gem" of the 18th and 19th centuries and many Rubies of this period were later found to be Pyrope Garnets.
Rhodolite Garnet
The name "Rhodolite" is taken from the Greek "rho'don" and "lithos," which literally translate to "rose stone." Possessing a color reminiscent of the rhododendron flower, this name was first used in the late 19th century to describe Garnets discovered in North Carolina.
Unusually striking, Rhodolite is a naturally occurring blend of Almandine and Pyrope Garnet. While raspberry is the most prized color, Rhodolite is also found in shades of pink through lavender.
Rhodolite is typically found as water worn pebbles in alluvial deposits but it is also occasionally mined directly from host metamorphic rock. The most spectacular Rhodolite is mined in Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, and from a relatively new deposit in the Kangala area of Tanzania that was discovered in 1987. Since then, gorgeous raspberry hued Rhodolite has been found in other regions of Tanzania including Ruvuma, Mtwara and Lindi.
Tough, durable, never enhanced and easily cleaned, Rhodolite is ideal for jewelry. Due to its bright transparent clarity, Rhodolite is often cut into fantasy shapes.
Star Garnet
A highly unusual form of Garnet is the rare four-rayed Almandine Star Garnet. While Almandine Garnets (also known as "Almandite") are the most common variety of Garnets, those displaying the star are not at all common. Available in deep reds, Almandine Star Garnets are found in Nigeria and Tanzania.
Asterism or the star effect is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light crossing the surface of a gem.
Tsavorite Garnet
For some the sixties swung, for gemologists they rocked. The decade which had most people looking to the sky for Lucy's Diamonds had gemologists transfixed by a myriad of precious gemstones hailing from Africa's arid savannas: Fancy Sapphires, Rubies, Tourmaline, Tanzanite, a plethora of gorgeous colored Garnets, among them a brilliant green Grossular Garnet, Tsavorite. Tsavorite, East Africa's beautiful green gemstone is rightful heir to the title "the King of Garnets." Some 40 years after its discovery, Tsavorite has comfortably established itself as one of the world's most beautiful, precious and desirable gemstones. Tsavorite Garnet, comparable in scarcity to Demantoid Garnet, is extremely rare. In fact, it is so rare that it might be unavailable in future years.
First discovered in 1967 by the now legendary Scottish geologist, Campbell R. Bridges, Tsavorite has quickly found favor as a precious colored gem of choice. Bridges first discovered Tsavorite in Tanzania, but in those days getting an export license to take the gems out was impossible. Bridges, aided by the local Masai and Kikuyu tribesmen persisted in his search, but this time turned his attention to the neighboring country of Kenya. In 1971 Bridges discovered Tsavorite for a second time in Kenya's Tsavo region. Life in Africa's bush is dangerous and the Tsavo region is well known as the domain of man-eating lions and poachers. In order to protect himself from predators and brigands, Bridges was forced to live in a tree house. And as he didn't want his treasure to be stolen, he cunningly used the locals' fear of snakes by placing a python in among the Tsavorite rough.
Tsavorite eventually found its way to America where Henry Platt of Tiffany & Co. named the gemstone, basing its name on the famous Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Tsavorite took the world by storm and interest increased dramatically when in 1974 Tiffany's started a special campaign promoting Tsavorite, making it well known in the US. International promotional campaigns followed and soon global demand for Tsavorite reached epic proportions.
While Tsavorite was once being mined in 40 different areas throughout Tanzania and Kenya, only four mining ventures are still producing commercial quantities. While some 50 deposits have been found in Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar and even Zambia, only a handful of small mines are viable. This is because Tsavorite is notoriously difficult to mine, requiring a good understanding of geology. Seams suddenly disappear, giving no indication where to look next and its crystals are often found inside Quartz or Scapolite "potatoes" that must be cracked open to reveal the Tsavorite.
Tsavorite's intense green colors, similar to that of fine Emeralds, are due to the presence of vanadium in the host rock. Like all Garnets, Tsavorite possesses few inclusions and its high refractive index results in a superb brilliance. While by no means an absolute, Kenyan Tsavorite generally possesses deeper color saturation than those from Tanzania.
Umbalite Garnet
Umbalite Garnet is an attractive light pinkish-purple Garnet that was first unearthed in Tanzania's Umba Valley in 1978. A cocktail of Pyrope, Almandine, with small traces of Spessartite Garnet, production of this unusual gem material has been irregular and it is highly sought after by connoisseurs of fine gemstones.
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